IN THIS LESSON

  • Perfumer’s alcohol is usually denatured high-strength ethanol, such as SDA 40-B.
  • A perfume base can include more than ethanol.
  • Record water, co-solvents and stock solvents when known.
  • Changing carrier creates a new compatibility experiment.

What is perfumer’s alcohol?

Perfumer’s alcohol is high-strength ethanol sold for making perfume, usually denatured so that it is not fit to drink. In the US the common grade is SDA 40-B, a federal denaturing formula: every 100 gallons of ethanol gets 1/16 ounce of denatonium benzoate, a bitter substance added to deter drinking, and 1/8 gallon of tert-butyl alcohol. Labels give the strength in proof, which is twice the percentage of ethanol by volume, so 190 proof is 95% ethanol and 200 proof is close to 100%.

The name is not a standard. Some products sold for the same job contain more than ethanol: Perfumer’s Apprentice lists its Base de Parfum as 75% 200-proof SDA 40-B, with the other 25% made up of dipropylene glycol and other functional ingredients. Other countries have their own denaturing rules, so read the product page and safety data sheet for the bottle you buy.

Illustrated closed solvent bottle beside product documentation and a sample vial.
Illustration created for Perfume Bench.

Perfumer’s alcohol vs ethanol, Everclear, vodka and rubbing alcohol

Perfumer’s alcohol is ethanol, so the comparison with ethanol comes down to grade: how strong it is and what has been added. The other liquids below differ in water content, odor or what they are made of.

LiquidWhat it is and how strongFor perfume
Perfumer’s alcohol (SDA 40-B)Ethanol denatured to a US federal formula, usually 190 or 200 proof: 95% to almost 100% ethanolSold for this use. Check the product page for anything added.
Undenatured ethanolEthanol with no denaturant. Grades differ, so read the labelThe same molecule. Buy from a supplier who documents the grade and what it is sold for.
Everclear 190A neutral grain spirit sold as a drink. 190 proof is 95% ethanol and about 5% waterClose in strength to perfumer’s alcohol and not denatured. Lower-proof bottles contain more water.
VodkaA neutral spirit sold as a drink. At least 80 proof in the US: 40% ethanol, up to 60% waterThe water makes cloudiness or separation likely.
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)A different alcohol from ethanol, often sold mixed with waterIts rubbing-alcohol odor becomes part of whatever you make, and it is not sold for perfume.
Dipropylene glycol (DPG)An odorless glycol solvent that boils near 231 °C, against 78 °C for ethanolEvaporates far more slowly, so it is used to dilute materials and in some bases rather than as the usual spray base.

The closest substitute for perfumer’s alcohol is high-strength undenatured ethanol, such as a 190-proof spirit. It is still a different carrier, so give the batch a new ID and run a small trial. Vodka is a poor substitute because of its water: essential oils separate from water, which is how steam distillation collects them, and a blend that dissolves in 95% ethanol may turn cloudy or separate at 40%. A carrier oil such as jojoba or fractionated coconut oil makes a different product, a perfume oil rather than an alcohol spray.

How much perfumer’s alcohol to use

The alcohol is the rest of the batch after the concentrate. At 15% concentrate by mass, a 50 g batch takes 7.5 g of concentrate and 42.5 g of perfumer’s alcohol, a ratio of about 1 to 5.7. At 5% the ratio is 1 to 19, and at 20% it is 1 to 4. Our dilution lesson has the full oil to alcohol ratio table, and the perfume dilution calculator works out any strength and batch size.

Weigh the alcohol rather than measuring it by volume. Ethanol weighs about 0.79 g per mL, so 42.5 g is about 54 mL, and a ratio in milliliters is a different ratio from one in grams.

The carrier is part of the formula

A carrier is the medium in which your fragrance blend is used. It contributes most of the mass in many diluted studies, so treat it as a real formula input. Record the supplier, product name and grade, just as you would for an aromatic material.

The words “perfumer’s alcohol” do not tell you everything inside a particular product. For example, the supplier base linked below contains specially denatured ethanol together with other functional ingredients. A gram of that base is not simply a gram of pure ethanol. Check the product description and its documents before calculating.

Distinguish ethanol, a supplied blend and a working stock

Ethanol is a substance. A supplied perfume base is a product that may contain ethanol and other ingredients. A working stock is a particular aromatic material diluted in a specified solvent. These can all be liquids on the bench, but they serve different roles in the calculation.

If your formula already contains stocks in dipropylene glycol or ethanol, those solvents travel into the finished study with the materials. Add them to the accounting before describing the total solvent composition. A final mixture made with several stocks may differ substantially from a simple two-component blend of neat concentrate and alcohol.

Solubility depends on the whole system

A material that dissolves in one solvent at one strength may not remain dissolved after you change the mixture. Water content, concentration, other ingredients and temperature can all matter to a compatibility study. The Institute for Art and Olfaction notes that not every material is soluble in every carrier or at every percentage.

Do a small documented compatibility trial before making a larger batch. Record the starting composition, appearance and conditions, then observe it again. If it separates, forms crystals or becomes persistently cloudy, keep that result with the formula. Do not assume the carrier or the fragrance is universally defective from one unexplained trial.

Use the correct concentration basis

For a 20 g arithmetic example at 15% concentrate loading by mass, the concentrate contribution is 3 g and the rest of the batch is 17 g. This says how much supplied concentrate is present; it does not establish how much neat aromatic material, pure ethanol or water is inside it.

If a label specifies strength by volume, do not enter it into a mass-based stock calculation as if the bases were identical. Obtain the appropriate composition information or make the conversion with reliable density data. Keep the original basis in the record so a later user can check your reasoning.

Buy for the intended application

Use a supplier that identifies the product and its intended use, provides current documentation and can answer compatibility questions. Do not assume a cleaning solvent, rubbing alcohol or fuel product is appropriate for a perfume because “alcohol” appears on the label.

Follow the specific product’s safety data sheet for ventilation, ignition control, storage and handling. Alcohol-containing products can present a fire hazard. Do not heat an alcohol trial to speed a beginner experiment, and keep it away from flames and other ignition sources. A scented solvent remains a solvent.

Evaluate the carrier change as its own trial

If you change solvent supplier or move from one type of carrier to another, give the result a new batch ID. Hold the aromatic composition steady and document the carrier change. Compare appearance and odor under the same evaluation conditions, and keep any limits on what you have observed.

A successful blotter experiment is one step in development. It does not establish long-term stability, packaging compatibility or suitability for sale. The practical win is a clear record of exactly what you mixed and how it behaved, which lets the next stage begin with evidence.

Questions & answers

Is perfumer’s alcohol the same as ethanol?

It is ethanol, usually with a small amount of denaturant added so that it is not fit to drink. SDA 40-B, the common US grade, adds denatonium benzoate and tert-butyl alcohol. Some products sold for perfume also contain other ingredients, so read the composition.

Can I use vodka instead of perfumer’s alcohol?

It is a poor substitute. US vodka can be as low as 40% ethanol, so it can be up to 60% water, which makes cloudiness or separation likely. A 190-proof spirit is much closer in strength. Either way, treat it as a new carrier and run a small trial first.

Can I use rubbing alcohol to make perfume?

We do not recommend it. Isopropyl alcohol is a different substance from ethanol, it has its own rubbing-alcohol odor, and products sold for cleaning or first aid are not made for perfume.

Is perfumer’s alcohol safe?

It is flammable: ethanol has a flash point of 55°F (13°C), so keep it away from flames and other ignition sources. It is denatured so that it is not fit to drink. Follow the safety data sheet for the product you buy. Whether a finished perfume is suitable for skin depends on the whole formula, not the alcohol alone.

Is a ready-made perfume base pure ethanol?

Not necessarily. Some contain co-solvents or other functional ingredients. Read the composition and documentation for the exact product rather than inferring it from the name.

Can I add water to any alcohol perfume?

Do not assume the mixture will remain compatible. Changing the carrier composition requires its own documented trial and assessment.

LESSON PROGRESS

Finish the reading and exercise, then mark this lesson complete.

KEEP LEARNING

How to make perfume: a beginner’s first experiment

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